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Replacing a Breadmaker Coupling (Twist & Lock)

We have many videos and repair information for the parts we sell but cannot always access appliances to be able to offer advice.

The following guide has been compiled and edited from customer feedback.

"I bought this to upgrade a pre twist-and-lock BM250 breadmaker. Success in the end, but be aware it's quite an involved process involving near-complete disassembly of the breadmaker. Allow yourself plenty of time; the results are worth the effort".

Matt Padden

This video shows an example on how to remove or replace the part on a typical machine, some models may be different but the procedure should be similar.

  What You Will Need:

  Step 1 - Safety Advice

Safety First! Please ensure that you have disconnected the appliance from the mains before starting any repair and due to the sharp edges exposed we suggest suitable Safety Gloves are worn to help prevent injury.

  Step 2 - Preparing and Dismantling

Remove the old pan and clean the inside of the bucket to remove any crumbs etc. and remove the top lid (lift just past vertical and the hinge lugs slide out).

Remove all screws around top metal lip of the bucket, then remove the three screws around the side of the control panel (two on the LH side, one at the rear). Note the rear one is a different size to the other two.

Pull the control panel block upward firmly but carefully; it will pop off its retaining clips. CAUTION: there is a ribbon cable attaching it to the main PCB so don't pull too far, then carefully detach the control panel's ribbon cable from the main PCB, noting orientation, and set to one side.

Look into the space under the now-removed control panel. You will see a thin 2-pole ribbon cable linking the thermostat (on the metal bucket wall) to the main PCB. Carefully detach this from the PCB, noting orientation.

CAREFULLY but FIRMLY detach the two heater element spade connectors, noting orientation. They are a very firm fit! I used a large flat-blade screwdriver to brace the end of the element while I pulled the cables, to avoid excessive strain on the element. Then unfasten the metal clip holding the loop of two large cables to the side of the bucket.

Remove the four screws at the bottom of the bucket around the hub. You may need WD40 to loosen these. I had to drill two of mine out; if you need to replace them they are M4 pan head, around 5mm length (but check against your actual ones). (eSpares top tip: Tap the screwdriver firmly with a hammer and turn to tighten first before loosening as this can help removal)

Carefully lift the entire metal bucket out of the casing and set it aside, now remove the two screws attaching the PCB's metal support to the metal baseplate. Carefully manoeuvre the PCB away from the corner, taking great care not to damage cables or components.

Remove the screws holding the white metal casing to the plastic baseplate. Leave the two at the motor end until last. The only way I found I could get at these was to bend/rotate the whole casing (as though those two screws were the 'hinge') enough to open up a gap so I could get the screwdriver in. Lift away the casing. The casing is tethered by the mains switch so you have only limited freedom of movement here.

Remove the screws securing the metal baseplate (carrying the motor etc.) to the plastic baseplate. There are screws around the edge, and at least two in the middle. One is right under the corner of the motor. I still haven't quite figured out how these machines were originally assembled!, now you can lift the metal baseplate assembly away from the plastic baseplate to reveal the drive belt and pulley. Lay the assembly on its side to access the pulley and its mounting nut. TAKE CARE that you don't damage the PCB with the weight of the motor.

Brace the pulley so it can't turn, and remove the hub nut with a spanner, it's pretty tight. You can now slide the pulley off the hub. The oblong metal fishplate may fall off; don't worry about it.

Discard the old pulley and its fixings, take care not to damage or twist the belt. Underneath the pulley is a circlip which holds the drive hub in place. Pop this off with a large flat-blade screwdriver.

You can now slide the drive hub out from the other side, finally revealing the three screws which hold the hub shell to the metal baseplate. Undo these three screws and retain them and remove and discard the hub shell.

  Step 3 - The Fitting

Clean the metal baseplate ready to receive the new hub. Test fit the new hub to establish the correct orientation; make sure the four outer holes allow the bucket to be reattached. Fit the new hub using the three retained screws making sure they're good and tight.

Thread the new pulley into the drive belt and seat it on the hub driveshaft using the new fishplate. Check that the pulley and belt can rotate smoothly; then, secure the pulley using the new nut making sure it's good and tight.

Reattach the metal baseplate to the plastic baseplate, ensuring that no wires or moving parts are fouled, then reattach the white casing to the plastic baseplate, making sure that you do the two screws at the motor end first. Repeat the rotating/bending trick to get them back in!

Reattach the PCB mount to the metal baseplate, taking great care not to trap or damage any wires. NOTE: the wires to the mains switch sit very close behind the PCB; they have insulating boots but they're not the tightest fit.

Retrieve the bucket. Remove and discard the two now redundant spring clips that used to hold the old pan in place (I reused the screws simply to blank the two holes). Then reseat the bucket onto the new hub (you did check it lined up when you fitted the hub, didn't you?), and secure using the four hub screws. Make sure they're good and tight.

Refit the screws around the bucket's top metal lip, reattach the two heater element wires, taking care not to overstrain the element ends and reposition the insulating boots.

Reattach the thermostat connector to the main PCB, noting correct orientation, refasten the metal clip holding the loop of two large cables to the side of the bucket.

Retrieve the control panel, and reattach its ribbon cable to the main PCB, noting correct orientation. Then reseat the control panel on its clips and refit the three screws (the one at the rear is different to the ones on the side).

Test fit the new pan to ensure it mates with the new hub, refit the top lid.

  Step 4 - And Finally:

Wash the new pan and kneader before first use, apply power and confirm the usual breadmaker behaviour.

Get a loaf on the go, and relax. Quite an exercise overall, but it completely solves the issue of the old-style pan jumping out of position during operation. Well worth it!

Thanks again for the info Matt, I hope you do not mind the few edits ?? 

 


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